Gaby
Fate threw plenty of challenges at her, knocking her off the pedestal talent and determination had put her on.
It’s no coincidence that wealthy women coveted her dresses. Ann Cole Lowe (1898-1981) had a unique talent for taming the most luxurious fabrics and understood the needs of her demanding clients. In her elegant creations, she employed the intricate “trapunto” technique, which dates back to medieval Italy. She also adorned her dresses with stunning, original flowers.
The Secret Snob
Despite being revered as a pioneer among American designers, Ann Lowe’s name was rarely mentioned at social events. Today, no one would bat an eye at her being Black. But during the height of her career, things were different.
In the 1960s a prestigious publication called Ann “one of society’s best-kept secrets”—which was proof that her name had become impossible to hide.
Ann was not only aware of her status but also referred to herself as a “terrible snob.” She aimed at the upper crust; her dresses were made for high society. Her path to success was hard-earned, a true American success story.
Born into a family of former slaves in Alabama, she inherited the craft of sewing from her grandmother and mother, who owned their own tailor shop. At just 16, after becoming an orphan, Ann Lowe crafted her first dresses for the state’s First Lady, taking the family business into her own hands. A few years later, the gifted 19-year-old was accepted into the New York School of Design, a groundbreaking event. Because of her skin color, she had to study separately from other students, even though few could match her talent.
Initially she gained recognition among Florida’s elite, spending ten years making dresses in her own atelier. Ultimately, she truly established herself as a couturier when life led her back to New York, where her opportunities flourished. From her studio came garments for women from billionaire families, aristocrats, socialites, renowned musicians, and Oscar nominees, among others.
Ann Lowe in her studio
Jacqueline’s Fateful Wedding Dress
In 1953, Ann Lowe was commissioned to make the wedding dress for Jacqueline Bouvier, who would soon become Jacqueline Kennedy. The Bouvier family had long been familiar with the designer’s work, so they didn’t hesitate to choose her for Jacqueline’s gown. Looking back at the wedding photos of what many saw as the 20th century’s most beautiful couple, few know the drama that accompanied the dress’s making.
Jacqueline Kennedy in her wedding dress
For this masterpiece in ivory silk taffeta, the designer used over 45 yards of fabric—a whole roll. That much fabric was necessary for the numerous patterned pleats that adorned the bodice and skirt. A striking neckline delicately revealed the shoulders of the 24-year-old bride.
Just ten days before the wedding, the studio where Lowe’s team had been working for two months was flooded. In a short time, the seamstresses had to restore the ruined masterpiece and the other dresses for their high-society clients. This disaster cost the designer an amount equivalent to $21,000 today. Yet, when the Kennedy wedding was broadcast to the world, no reporter mentioned Lowe’s name.
Jacqueline Kennedy’s wedding dress, created by Ann Lowe
Perhaps it was envy from competitors—or the cost of Lowe’s own snobbery. She was a Black woman who knew all too well what it meant to be divided between “white” and “colored,” ordinary and elite.
As time went on, Ann Lowe’s story took on even more tragedy. In the early 1960s, she went bankrupt and lost her workshop due to tax issues. She reportedly lacked business acumen. To add to her misfortunes, she had her right eye removed after being suddenly diagnosed with glaucoma, and later she nearly lost her left eye as well.
However, amidst this dark cloud of troubles, a ray of light appeared. An anonymous benefactor covered the designer’s debts. Many suspected Jacqueline Kennedy was behind this generous gesture, although there has been no confirmation to this day.
Ann Cole Lowe completely stepped away from her work in 1972. Today, her dresses are in leading museum exhibitions around the world, inspiring new generations of designers.
We invite you into the enchanting world of Ann Cole Lowe—a gallery featuring her stunning dresses. Click any image to view it in full screen.
